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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 3:10 pm 
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Let me know if you have much trouble, I can see if we have some at the shop.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 3:13 pm 
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msjulian wrote:
Did you try tractor supply?

I just checked their website. It looks like they have some 1/4 inch (~6.35mm) key stock that might work with a little persuasion. Does it matter that if it's not rounded like the motor shaft keyway?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 8:50 pm 
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No, doesn't matter. The key just needs to be as long as the coupler keyway.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 6:45 am 
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If the motor is machined for 7mm and the coupling 6mm? You've got a problem if you want the correct fit. I would machine the coupling to use a 7mm key to make it work right. The guys at Evansville bearing on Fares ave should have the key stock. Call me if you need the coupling machined.

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Dutch deHaan • OVHA Board Member


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 10:37 am 
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Evansville Bolt and Nut (EBN)
1701 E Columbia St, Evansville, IN 47711
(812) 477-0077

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Don Heisler

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Brewers make wort, yeast make beer, God is good.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 10:49 am 
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Dutch wrote:
If the motor is machined for 7mm and the coupling 6mm? You've got a problem if you want the correct fit. I would machine the coupling to use a 7mm key to make it work right. The guys at Evansville bearing on Fares ave should have the key stock. Call me if you need the coupling machined.

Dutch, you're probably right, especially if I would have the motor wired for reverse although I probably won't. I didn't realize that machining the coupler was an option. Is that something you can do? If so, I can drop them (I bought a spare) by. I'm happy to pay you up front. I'd also like to talk tap handles. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 5:44 pm 
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Interesting new line of equipment from Blichmann, endorsed by John Palmer.

http://www.anvilbrewing.com/

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Dwayne Delaney

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 7:15 pm 
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I guess he was tired of trying to sell a $420 kettle against really good kettles that run $295 for the same size...

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Michael Julian


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 4:05 pm 
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I have bought a couple of 15.5 gallon kegs that I am converting over to a HLT (or Mash Tun) and Boil Kettle so that I can begin brewing all-grain batches. Anyway, I have the tops cut off and one of the kegs has some rust spots on the inside. Does anyone have experience in removing rust? I know some steel wool would take care of it, but I don't know if that would have any adverse effects on the stainless.

I have had it it full of Oxyclean for the past several days - hoping that the spots would have lifted off but they haven't yet. Looking for some recommendations.


Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 9:43 pm 
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I use scotch brite pads and bar keepers friend. Works like a charm. Be sure and read the directions on the bar keepers friend powder. You want to almost make a paste with it. Once you get it clean, dry it real good and let it sit for a week or so before you use it. This will allow the stainless to naturally passivate.

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Michael Julian


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 7:07 am 
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Sort of funny that a rust proof, food-grade, 304 SS alloy rusted in the first place? Maybe it is just a stain from something else? I guess either way the stain has to go!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 10:54 am 
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Thanks, Michael. I will give that a try.

I was thinking the same thing, Dutch. It looks like rust but could be old beer gunk or something else. It smelled pretty ripe after I removed the keg spear. Good ol' aged Budweiser leftovers!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 12:41 pm 
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BKF worked perfectly. The spots are long gone.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2015 11:27 am 
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Picked up a big mouth bubbler over the holidays. Drilled a port and added a better bottle racking adaptor... Best of both worlds.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:02 pm 
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What did you use to drill the port?


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